05 December
Buenos Aires
Arrived in to Buenos Aires refreshed on the overnight BA service from London. The 15-hour flight included a scheduled stop in Sao Paulo. Checked in to Americas Towers Hotel and booked myself on to a three hour walking tour which covered the Ricerlota area of the city. As well as stretching my legs after a long flight I learnt about a fascinating part of Buenos Aires. You can book online at www.ba-walking-tours.com and well worth the US$25 for the experience. One of the most interesting sights, believe it or not was the city’s most famous cemetery where Evita (Eva Peron) was finally laid to rest. There are many other walks on offer but I would recommend this one in the first instance because of its deep insight in to life (as well as death) in Buenos Aires.
In the evening I decided to go to one of the numerous Jazz cafes in Buenos Aires called ‘Notorious’, which is a small establishment where you can have dinner whilst listening to live music. Buenos Aires is the home of Tango and you can’t visit this city without trying it. I managed to resist!
Buenos Aires is friendly and extremely welcoming to visitors. It’s a vast city and has many facets including the Bocha Area where the legendary Maradona played football for many years (Bocha Juniors, one of Buenos Aires football teams). I visited this colourful area for a couple of hours on Saturday morning, there are street markets, as well as tango in the street, cafes and typical Boca restaurants and bars and a “look-alike” Maradona looking similar maybe in height, weight with dyed hair, charging for photographs.
06 December
Ushuaia
Temp 10-14°
After an interesting but bumpy flight in to Ushuaia I arrived in the Albatross Hotel in town only a short transfer away from the airport. The weather was approx 10° and I felt the chill after the wonderful temperature of Buenos Aires.
Ushuaia reminds me of a wet ski resort. It’s rainy, cool and windy but the sun was trying to get out this morning. The commercial part of town consists of a long street which you can walk the length of in 20–30 minutes max. On this street are shops (some very sophisticated, others not), restaurants, bars and cafes. I would call it very much a “waiting room” sort of town where people are either waiting for their Antarctica expedition to start or have just returned and are awaiting a flight out. Last night I tried the legendary fresh crab in one of the local rustic fish restaurants – I have to say it was fantastic; it came cooked in white wine and herbs and I enjoyed it with local bread – wonderful!
Larger cruise ships are now calling in at Ushuaia, which is the catalyst for growth whether you like it or not. Only a few years ago you would arrive at Ushuaia and experience a completely different village type atmosphere more of a working type community than a tourist hub.
07 December
Temp 10-12°
The voyage to the Antarctic Peninsula on board the MV Multanovsky starts.
At 6.15pm we slip off the dock and set off down the Beagle Channel in calm seas. The snow capped mountains hug the channel as we enter into the infamous Drake Passage at about 11.30pm. Before this we all have to experience an emergency evacuation and lifeboat drill, which is carried out most professionally. There are two lifeboats on the Multanovsky, each fitting approx 30 passengers and crew. We go though the total drill and actually take to the lifeboats and start the engines. We then meet in the bar and Anna, the team leader gives an informative talk to us of what we can expect over the next two days on the way to the Antarctic Peninsula. The Beagle Channel can be either very calm or you can be totally unlucky and experience what the Southern Ocean is well known for. Unfortunately we experience the latter but not before an excellent and wholesome three course dinner served at 8pm. Dark at 10.30pm
08 December
Temp 8°. 10.5 knots average speed.
5am and miraculously I’ve slept through the start of a treacherous heavy sea with waves up to 9 metres high. I was recommended to use the seasick bands which one wears around both wrists. I’m convinced that we sometimes don’t get the right advice from our GPs or pharmacies at home and I note that other nationalities on board have been given effective advice and even prescription patches you place on your neck 72 hours prior to anticipated requirement, which apparently let out a slow injection. The bands didn’t work for me in any way and at 10am after a stoic two hours of sickness (seems longer) I give in and pay a visit as best I can under the conditions to Robert, the English doctor on board. I’m offered pills or injection straight away. They start to work and within two hours I’m absolutely fine and enjoying the start of the expedition. Take advice and be prepared for the worst the Drake Passage can deliver – not like me!
Our first lecture is on Antarctic wildlife, especially whales and dolphins, which is presented by Jordie, a Spanish chap who has been working in research for the Chilean government who sponsor him on these types of voyage as part of his job.
We see plenty of birdlife during the day including: Prion, Cape Petrel, Southern Fulmar, Giant Petrel, Black-browed Albatross and wandering Albatross (wing span up to 4 metres).
The seas calm down before we retire to our cabins. On a small ship like the Multanovsky you cannot help but get to know your fellow passengers very quickly. Amazingly there 15 different nationalities on board, including Chinese, Lebanese, Japanese and many other people from Europe and North America making up the 46 or so. The interest thread, which we have in common, is a huge interest in wildlife, wilderness and a certain adventure travel streak. The ages of the passengers range from early twenties to late seventies, a massive variety. Dark approx 11pm
09 December
Temp 4º. 10.5 knots average speed. Heading for the Weddell Sea.
I awake to rough seas again but unlike yesterday feel like breakfast. MV Mulchanovsky is crossing the convergence of the Southern Ocean and Pacific; one is colder than the other and drastically brings the temperature down.
As we head towards the South Shetland Islands, we have a full day of lectures and Antarctic wildlife presentations today, which we are looking forward to. This morning, we have Antarctic birdlife as the theme and this afternoon, basic history of Antarctic exploration. They last about an hour in total. Tonight we are watching the film ‘Happy Feet’!
Today we saw penguin and seal even though we were in the middle of the Drake Passage, Grey Headed Albatross, Southern Fulmar, Antarctic Petrel as well as all the birds we saw yesterday. Apparently Albatross can live between 60–70 years of age. Their parents leave chicks to fend for themselves quite early on compared to other types. The chicks protect themselves by spitting foul smelling oil from their stomach and can project this over a metre if required. Apparently if you are unlucky enough to be on the receiving end of the projectile, you may as well throw your clothing away as the stench is unbearable and never goes away.
It’s now 9.25pm and we will hopefully be passing through the South Shetland Islands in just over an hour. We hope to see our first icebergs anytime now; very exciting. Tomorrow we will be waking up in the Weddell Sea at Brown Bluff, off the Trinity Peninsula, which divides the Weddell Sea from the rest of the Antarctic Peninsula. In this area Adelie penguin are in abundance. The name Adelie comes from a French Explorer called Dumont d’Urville who named them after his wife. Wonder how she felt about that! We have a 2% chance of actually seeing an Emperor Penguin.
10 December
On board temp 5ºC
On land temp in the sun14-20º
I wake at 3am, look through my porthole and see an iceberg for the first time. I quickly get dressed and take the camera up on deck. It’s daylight and the sun is starting to rise on a chilly but clear and calm day. I’m the first on Mulchanovsky’s deck and the only one there for around two hours – an amazing experience to see these floating masses of ice going with the current. We are approaching the Trinity Peninsula and aim for the Antarctic Sound to a landing area called Brown Bluff. Brown Bluff was once part of a volcano and the beach area was once the middle (crater).
At around 7am, I reluctantly drag myself off for breakfast. Today is the first day we will take the zodiacs for a landing. All the way to Brown Bluff we have seen icebergs and smaller pieces of ice, which have broken loose from the ice shelf over the last month or two. We are all like kids in a sweet shop and can’t believe the spectacle we are seeing. No Attenborough documentary, National Geographic image or any other wildlife film has prepared us for this.
Although we are fully prepared for cold Antarctic conditions the sun is already very warm and we are advised to use cream or sun block. On arrival after approx 0.5km we arrive at a beach of dark volcanic sand, stone and rocks. The beach is full of penguins – Adelie and Gentoo, the latter already with chicks of small varying sizes. Towering in front of us is the huge volcano cliff – Brown Bluff. We are struck with the beauty and the varying colours – white ice, dark sand, sandy coloured cliff and a bright blue sky – no clouds whatsoever. We spend nearly three hours exploring the beach, taking images of the comical penguins, some of which are curious and walk towards you. Some are nesting but most seem to take a walk to the sea for a dip when they feel like it, but this is done in unison, which makes for great entertainment.
In the middle of the beach, so still and part of the furniture is a large leopard seal, basking on the beach no doubt after a tasty penguin or two for breakfast. On the beach the seal is clearly offering no threat and the penguin walk around in the middle of the main walkway to the beach – we see a different story in the next two hours!
We climb on loose rock and sand 100 metres or so halfway to the top of the cliff, we have to stop here as we have disturbed a nesting skua and partner. They normally would bomb us - their normal pattern of behaviour but we obviously look a friendly lot and they just cause a very loud din, so we back off 10 metres or so. The views of the bay, the glacier along from the beach and the ship are well worth the hot climb. We are sweating by this time and all amazed at the heat coming from the sun but also bouncing off the volcanic rock.
In the distance not more than 15 metres in to the sea from the beach we see something large and brown thrashing back and to with something in its jaw as if it’s a plaything. The efficient killer at work is the leopard seal with its Jurassic like head and the victim is, or was, a penguin. This obviously alarms the rest of the penguin community and within seconds they all just pop out of the water on to dry land. We see another killing in the next 45 minutes with the same brutal method.
Once aboard again we sail towards Devil Island further in to the Weddell Sea, zigzagging around icebergs and parts of ice floes. The Captain is experienced and happy to get as far south as the ice will allow. In the distance we see a group of four or five killer whale. Our first whale sighting, but they move fast and we are already heading in the opposite direction and unfortunately, we lose them.
Two weeks ago this area was completely free of icebergs and ice floes and it’s the wind direction change which has brought this drastic change. We search for the emperor penguin hoping to catch a glimpse, as once we leave this area our chances will diminish.
We turn back as the going get harder because of the ice. It’s time to go on to the peninsula proper. The wind picks up and the weather and temperature change quickly.
11 December
Temp 5º
We awoke today with sunshine but with rough seas and a high wind of 50 knots per hour. We have been advised only to go out on the top and bridge deck because the seas and waves are high. I’m nearly blown over by the wind when I enter on to the bridge deck; you literally have to hang on. We carry on down the peninsula towards Trinity Island during which time there are quick sightings of humpback whale passing by quickly. Out of the wind at the very top deck it’s possible to enjoy the warm sun, which is quite amazing. A special lecture about Shackleton is given by one of the team. It’s brilliant and timed well after experiencing only a taste of what The White Continent can throw at us.
We eventually reach Trinity Island and because the conditions are somewhat calmer we plan a shore visit for 8pm after dinner. It’s now very cloudy and the island has been covered in snow. On Trinity Island there are still the remnants of a small whaling station with cabin and drums used for storing whale blubber. We take a hike across the island only 0.5 km through knee depth snow and reach a small pebble beach with large scattered whale bones and the wooden frame of an old 25 ft whaler. It’s actually quite ghostly to see this spectacle of a bygone age untouched for maybe 70 years. We have experienced such weather change in only a few days and by now we know to expect anything and everything in the land of surprise. It’s sunny within 15 minutes and like a spring afternoon at home but we are now 10.15pm and the temperature increases a little.
Back for hot drinks at the bar.
12 December
Temp 5º
Arriving at Cuverville Island at 7am further down the Peninsula with a coat of snow on the ship and more on the way. It’s been a calm night with little motion, but sleep has not been a problem since we boarded. Today we have been promised Chinstrap Penguins, as this is the only nesting area on the peninsula outside of South Shetland Islands. We are out early with great expectations. The snow falls and we experience brief blizzards when we arrive on the first landing beach full of jagged bergs of all sizes. We take a short hike in the snow but are careful to keep to a path and guard against any wildlife disturbance. The strict rule is followed - We leave only footprints and take away only photographs and memories.
The zodiacs take us eventually to Orne Harbour 20 minutes away to hopefully see the chinstrap penguins and we are not disappointed.
Even greater expectations as we move into humpback whale territory. This afternoon we head a short distance, two hours further down to a normally calm Paradise Bay where we will anchor and take another zodiac trip and landing subject to conditions. After anchoring just off the impressive glacier in Paradise Bay, we land via the zodiacs at an Argentinean (only recently disused) scientific station called Almirante Brown. The small groups of buildings are red in colour and made from wood and corrugated metal. The Argentinean flag still flies. Apparently scientists had a year long contract to stay here; after experiencing the Antarctic summer it’s not too difficult to imagine the harsh polar winter with temperatures reaching -50º at some times. After climbing the steep snow-clad hill at the side of the station, we sledge down on plastic bags to the bottom. On the zodiac journey back to the ship we cruise through the loose sea-ice around the magnificent glacier walls, whilst being careful not to get too close in case of falling ice. Anyone expecting one colour (white) in Antarctica is assuming incorrectly as I have seen shades of different beautiful blues I cannot describe in words. Out of the fallen ice we pick up a few pieces of absolutely clear ice to take back for drinks later on.
13 December
Temp 1º
Awaking early today, was on deck at 6.30am to enjoy the view as the ship is entering the Lemaire Channel, a wonderful place and exceptionally calm and pretty. Everyday I feel I've enjoyed the best of Antarctica, but I have to say it gets better as you experience a different polar facet not just each day but each hour or so. There’s a tremendous amount of floating ice about 50cm thick, which the ship cuts like a hot knife through butter. At this time of year the pack ice has already started to break and as we once again take out the zodiacs and see massive blue bergs, which have been carved over the last few weeks after they have been released by the mass of pack ice seasonally attracted to the continent.
Today we see penguins as well as exciting views of both Crab-eater, Leopard and Weddell seal. There are no vegetarian creatures in Antarctica and seals tend to live on penguin and krill, a prawn like creature, which varies in size depending on type from minute to 6cm. The crab-eater was so named because early explorers thought the red around the edges of the mouth were from the red colouring of crabs, but this was not the case and the colouring is actually from the colouring in the krill. By accident, we also land close to a Skua’s nest and if you have experienced or heard about this breed of sea bird (just a little bigger than a common seagull, you may know that they have a reputation for diving and bombing anyone or anything that gets close to the nest. Both the male and female were very menacing and flew close within centimetres of our heads whilst we were still in the zodiac
Scattered all along the Antarctic coast, there are scientific stations, some in use today. These are operated by various countries including USA, UK, Argentine, Australia, New Zealand and Chile. We visit a station, which is run and owned by the Ukraine called Vernadsky; until recently, this was a UK research station, which had been started in the 1930’s. British scientists at this station are reputed to have discovered a hole in the ozone but this was disputed since they did not know what their images represented. The Americans later confirmed such a hole via satellite images. Either way, this station has been essential in the study and research on the ozone layer amongst other things. The meteorologist at the station gave us some hard-hitting facts, one of which is that in the years since 2004, the average temperature at the base has risen from -5C to -2C. The Ukrainian team is both friendly and welcoming and invites us to their rest area and bar for a vodka or two. We head back towards the beautiful Lemaire Channel spotting the occasional humpback on the way.
14 December
Temp 3º
Today is another sunny and calm day with no wind. This is our last day before we head back towards the Drake Passage. During the night we have sailed to Wiencke Island to Port Lockroy. We have seen humpback whale today at various points as they come down from the north for their early spring arrival. Port Lockray is an important historic research station set up by the British in 1943 during Operation Tabarin (named funnily enough after a sleazy French bar) and represents the start of the modern era of British expedition. The aim of this wartime operation was to help report on any enemy vessel activity but it also served to enhance British influence by the establishment of this base plus others at Deception Island, Hope Bay and many others. After the war, the scientific research continued, but it now carries out wildlife research and currently a study of how penguin colonies cope with living alongside human beings. As the penguins live across the island, the researchers have simply divided the station areas in to two parts, one of which is strictly out of bounds (except to occasional researchers counting the population) and the other part being an open area but obviously respecting the penguins’ space. Surprisingly enough, it has been established that the shared half has experienced an increase in numbers. This is thought to be something to do with the fact that skuas are a nuisance to penguin and take young chicks on a regular basis but do not thrive as well with human company. Further information at www.heritage-antarctica.org.
As we head towards the Drake Passage, we see three humpbacks in the near distance.
We watch a very interesting documentary of the history on Lockroy Station.
15 December
Temp 2º
We are now in the middle of the Drake Passage and it’s as calm as you can expect in the Southern Ocean. It’s been sunny this morning and perfect conditions for spotting whales. We enjoy a superb sighting of two humpback swimming south as we head north. We have perfect views of their bodies and tails as they swim close to the ship. We stop and follow for 30 minutes. Wonderful!
This morning before lunch one of the team, Chris Gilbert a historian aboard, gives an impressive and interesting account of the Ross Sea Endurance Expedition. A moving tale of yet more brave souls, who were driven to push themselves unselfishly to the limit. Recommended reading “The Lost Men”, Kelly Tyler-Lewis 2006.
16 December
Crossing the Drake Passage
17 December
Arrive Ushuaia 07.00 hours and disembark
Further Reading:
History
‘Let Heroes Speak’ - Rosov
‘The Race to the White Continent’ - Alan Gurney
‘Shackleton’ - Roland Huntford
‘Of Dogs and Men’ - Kevin Walton & Kevin Atkinson
‘The Lost Men’ - Kelly Tyler-Lewis 2006 – Covers the Ross Sea part of the Shackleton Endurance Expedition
Recommended Guides:
‘Antarctica’, Tony Soper – Highly rated and illustrated by Dafila Scott
‘Antarctica’, Lonely Planet
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